Missing Alejandro

IT was a lifetime ambition to meet him. Alas, I was a year or so too late.

I stood outside the gates of the rustic Robaina farm in the heart of Pinar del Rio and said a silent prayer for a man I had never met last week.

Such was his fame and magnetic personality that I, like many lovers of the Cuban cigar, felt like I knew him a little anyway.

I had bumped, swerved, dodged and scraped my way to the sacred plantation from Havana, losing my way several times and finally finding the rough mud track to the farm more by luck than judgment. The directions of young boys, old ladies and more than one mangy dog were taken en route.

Today, the Robaina plantation feels more like a museum than it perhaps should, only because of the huge numbers of pilgrims who visit to pay homage to the greatest wrapper producer the island has ever known.

Today, the last of the 150,000 tobacco seedlings have been planted in the red, dusty, mineral-rich soil of the hallowed Vuelta Abajo. Incredibly, in just 45 days, they will be 7ft tall and ready for harvest.

We stood alongside the limp looking seedlings, had a quick tour of Alejandro's former homestead and watched a 76-year-old minus a finger make short work of rolling a Robaina-grown Churchill.

But in reality, the place must surely be a shadow of its former self in the absence of the old man. His incredible wrinkled visage stares out benignly from umpteen photographs and drawings on the wall and while his nephew Hiroshi has now taken on the farm more than adequately, I can't help but feel sad I didn't make it to the Robaina farm just a little bit sooner.

In the red dust of twilight, I climb back into the car and begin the long journey home, the sound of crickets lining my route along the potholed farm track.

After the Lord Mayor's show...

I'm back and recovering from as intense a few days as I can remember.

I have a stinking cold, have to keep crashing into sleep every few hours and am drinking copious amounts of water in an attempt to make up for rum overdose.

But my trip to Havana was a blast, an incredible mix of old and new, prehistoric landscape and a timeless, pulsating culture of cigars, rum and people.

There are several articles to be written and photos and videos to be processed and tweaked. Highlights were a trips to Vuelta Abajo, a tour of Cohiba factory at El Laguito, a quick visit to the Robaina farm. Rest  assured I will lead you through my experiences in the coming weeks. Now I'm back off for a crash on the sofa...

Enjoy this bird's eye view of Vinales.

http://m.youtube.com/?client=mv-google&appcache_off=1321942960&errmsg=E-SER%3AQUOTA_EXCEEDED_ERR%3A%20DOM%20Exception%2022&rdm=4oox72hw1&reason=1#/watch?v=QwttvSS46ls

Best,

M.

Long first day

Just sinking into my bed at the Nacional.

Been up for 24hrs so need my sleep ready for a big day of cigar shops and hopefully Pinar del Rio plantations tomorrow. Weather looks set fair, city buzzing for Partagas Festival.

Ended tonight with Bucanero beer and smokes on the sensational terrace at The Nacional overlooking the Malecon sea wall.

Watch this space...

M.

Hi Ho, Hi Ho, it's off to Havana we go...

AS usual, I've left everything far too late.

I haven't packed a thing, not sure what I'm taking and I have an awful lot of work to do before I depart; but the flipside of that coin is, I'm flying out to Havana tomorrow lunchtime for a whistlestop tour of the capital taking in the Partagas Festival, the city's best cigar shops, bars, music and atmosphere. If I can squeeze it in, I'll also be jumping into an old Buick and cruising down to the sacred Vuelta Abajo to check out this year's crops in the plantations.

Follow @MontyCristo1 on Twitter and keep your eye on this blog over the next few days. If I can get a reliable enough internet signal(!) I'll be blogging words and pics of the trip to give you a little taster of this Caribbean cigar Mecca and the amazing things it has to offer lovers of the leaf.

I'll smoke one for you.

M.